Potatoes

potatoes Growing Potatoes You need a good-sized, sunny plot to grow potatoes. Vines grow about 2 feet high and are very leafy; the potato tubers form underground and require well drained soil. Potato vines rarely form seeds; garden potatoes are grown from “sets,” which are chunky segments cut from certified, disease free tubers. Sprouts grow from the eyes, so each set should have at least two eyes. Upper portions of the sprout become tops; lower portions form roots and short stems. Sets are hard to find in most localities but can be ordered from one of the mail-order seed companies. Potatoes from produce racks are often treated with a sprout inhibitor and won’t grow properly if cut up for sets.

How to plant

Very early spring planting is required except where winters are mild. In such areas crops can be planted in July for a late fall harvest. Potatoes need a sandy, fast-draining soil; tubers become deformed in heavy, poorly drained soil. If your soil is heavy, use the following method for planting. (In any case, do not plant if soil is very wet.) Remove 2 to 3 inches of soil from the row, setting it aside. Spade deeply and fertilize. Soak the soil deeply; then let it dry for two to three days. Make a 3-inch layer of compost or spoiled hay down the length of the row. Lay the eyes 12 to 18 inches apart, the cut side down on the organic matter. Cover with another 3 inches of garden soil to keep the rough material from blowing. Large, clean tubers will form on underground stems within the warm, decomposing layer, simplifying harvesting.

Care

Because the layer of organic matter will interfere with capillary moisture flow from below, you will need to lay a soaker upside down on the row and water thoroughly every two to three weeks in dry weather. If you grow potatoes without the organic matter, apply water through irrigation furrows to avoid wetting the foliage. Knobby potatoes result if the soil dries out (stopping growth) and is wetted again.

Harvesting

Dig up early varieties when flowers form on the plants; on later varieties, yellowing and dying of vines will indicate the tubers have reached full size. Loosen the soil with a spading fork along the outer edges of the bed. Probe carefully so you don’t impale tubers. Then, slide the spading fork under the central plant, lifting and shaking gently to remove tubers. Turn the loose soil over to find the small tubers that escaped the lifting. Don’t bruise tubers or let them stand in the sun. Store them in a cool, dark area, unwashed, until ready for use. Well-matured potatoes free of defects store best.